Pokhara

The evening light in Pokhara really is something. Golden Hour seems to begin early here, as I write this it is just before 3pm. The warmth and tone in light is different from back home. Somehow a diffused but at the same time intense orange envelopes everything in the valley. The light reflecting of the flora - Marigolds and Rice fields - as a intense vibrancy, but rest your focus and the light sits hazily across the lake and up the hillsides. The synergy between the two produces a vibrancy of warmth and aura of relaxation that is keeping with the Nepalese spirit.

Pokhara is Nepal's second largest city behind Kathmandu but the two could not be so different. The city sits on Lake Phewa, and just of the Annupurna mountain range. Between the two are thick lush valleys that extend all the way to the outskirts of Kathmandu. October is hot (although some Nepalese insist it is cold wearing woollen jumpers) but rain is frequent in the evenings washing away all the dust in the air and on the streets whilst feeding the countryside. As a result Pokhara is generally clean, green and fertile. It is also a peaceful place, traffic is low, fisherman sit on grass verges reeling in their catch. Families and tourists hire boats and paddle in the hazy sun upon the lake. Its very lazy and comfortable. It's a perfect getaway from the chaos that is Kathmandu, and that is what the city is designed around. Braver souls than me paraglide of Sarangkot hill, rafting and kayaking are readily available. Mountain bikers head out into the surrounding villages whilst trekkers prepare or rest after hikes into the mountains.

Sadly views of the mountain range have been far and between. Occasingly Machapurchare peeks its head through what seems like the permanent blanket of cloud that hides the Annapurna massif. When it does appear, as though it wants to check what is happening in it's domain, it stands as a matter of fact with its stark geometry, a gentle reminder of my own mortality and insignificance. I find the dichotomy of spirituality and reality a bit confusing in Nepal. These mountains stand are huge. Towering monuments with the the power to destroy and create. For me they present the real, they are visceral, tactile and tangible, each sense responds to their prescence, they are a reminder of our own existence. I haven't found a reason why people find a spiritual side to these mountains, other than a moment in time and place to seek solace and a inner peace. I think that reflects itself in the type of the traveller you see in Nepal, it does seem divided between those seeking spirituality and those who want to get stuck in to the mountain.

I have seen only a small amount of what Pokhara as too offer, taking my time to take in the sights, so I have decided to extend my stay by a few days.I've been quite happy ambling along the road in opposite directions, one taking me through various Nepalese villages, reminders of how destitute Nepal is but still greeted with a wave and a Namaste (Hello) as I walk by. The other way takes me in to part of the city that caters for tourists. Western food hubs, yoga retreats and bars line the street, it is home to the more hippy breed of traveller. I've even seen a dreadlock man bun! Make of that what you will! You can take a detour and walk around the lake. This way I took to get a boat up the World Peace Pagoda, a recently built Stupa designed to promote world peace, one of a hundred around the world envisioned by a Japanese man in response to the horrors of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. It is stunning and well worth the hike up to reach it, a hike in which I though my heart was going to explode out my chest, its pretty demanding. The Stupa is immaculate and a testament to modern day methods of sculpture making, the various depictions of Buddist iconography is exquisitely detailed. It is well worth the hike up for the views alone, views that overlook the whole city and lake. I quite happily place the World Peace pagoda alongside Boudanath Stupa as the best temple I have seen in Nepal, so much so, it easily overpowered the sense that I was feeling templed out. I did fall over again on the way down. I think fallen over more in the last few weeks than I have in my entire life. The Boat ride back, a nice 20-30 minute jaunt gave me enough time to reflect and laugh on it, but it is ridiculous how vulnerable you become away from home.

I still got a 4 odd days left in Pokhara, Dashain Festival has just begun, a time where Nepalese families get together to celebrate the conquest of gods over evil deamons. I don't know how much I will see of this festival as asking around it does seem to be a time for families in house, a time to catch up and exchange stories. Its more public persona is leading sacrifices - goats, buffalo, chicken, ducks etc through the street in a throng of percussion before they are offered and consumed as holy food. Something I am not sure I want to witness! Flags and bunting hang across the streets, swaying gently in the light breeze. There are fairs for the young children, a Ferris wheel slowly turning over, the punt of dodgem hitting dodgem against the background sound of nepalese pop music. It is also meant to be a time for children to fly kites, a iconic Nepalese image and past time, but sadly it does seem like an actual past time. I've only seen two or three kites riding the air in my time here. An article in the national newspaper cites that kite sales have fallen as much as 75% in the last decade, technology such as mobile phones cited as one of many causations. However, I have seen many big bamboo swings, seemingly only constructed in time of festival, 3 or 4, maybe 5 metre high contraptions for children to swing away their days. They seem hugely popular and it is great to see that some form of tradition can survive.

I'm not where I will head after Pokhara, road journeys are uncomfortable and long. The journey to Pokhara was particularly tiring, 10 hours on rough roads and nervously peering over the edge of a gorge into a ravine. Chitwan or Lumbini may have to wait another day, so I may head back to Kathmandu and catch a few sights I didn't get round to seeing first time round as well as thinking on a bigger decision along the way.

All the best, Joel