Pokhara, Patan & Kathmandu

Last weekend came the conclusion of Dashain festival, a festival celebrated all over Nepal which honours the great conquest of the gods over the evil demons. Goddess Durga, the symbol of power is worshiped during this festival and the celebrations gave me an insight in to how the youth of Nepal are helping keep tradition alive as the country as a whole lurches towards modernisation and increasingly influenced by western globalisation. That is to say, simply, it is still celebrated with vigor! with life! with joy! Nepal likes to party! As the full moon nears, the party atmosphere ramps up, around bonfires youths will sing and play instruments - mainly percussion - with enthusiasm, with a clarity of being and belonging. Of course, like other young adults it is a good excuse to drink, but you really get a feeling that the festival is a part of their identity and it is something they celebrate with fervour and feeling, something within.

However, the more time I spend in Nepal, the more it is made clear to me that it is a country that is changing, falling under the need to modernise, and embrace western culture. The most visible aspect of this is the difference between the country's youth and adults, how they conduct themselves and the clothes they wear. People watching, I wouldn't say it is a difference between the old generation and youth, but it is much closer, the change feels as though it has started recently. It is clear there is a difference between youth and adults in their 30's. The young in Nepal have embraced western culture whole heartedly. They're a fashionable bunch, they know how to dress well. Men wear well made colourful cotton shirts, Women, bold coloured knitted jumpers and light trousers, clothing that is familiar amongst western countries. They are also obsessed with selfies, probably to a unhealthy degree, its epidemic. There is definitely a vanity amongst nepalese youth that is instantly recognisable and relatable. A lot of mannerisms are similar to our own, which on one hand makes you feel more comfortable, they talk about the same tv shows, music, books and films, but on the other it is slightly unnerving. Western culture is universal and Nepal has increasingly become a part of that. However, look around and traditional nepalese wear - particularly amongst women is still common for those just aged around 30 or older. Normally one piece dresses or garments, red or green being the most popular colours, bright, bold and vibrant. Men, well are men. I think they just like to throw anything together and top it off with an hat. Now that is universal. Walking around the streets of Kathmandu, it is here where you feel uncomfortable, outside your comfort zone. Where Nepalese culture flourishes, where you don't quite recognise what is going on, where you do feel like an outsider looking in. Nepalese adults seem to be quite communal and sociable in their small groups. It seems like they like to talk their day away. It is in these little interactions between these communal areas - shop entrances, streets corners, sitting on temples - where you don't quite understand what is being said, verbally and through body language.

The shift in culture was always going to happen ever since the first mountaineers and explorers started to explore Nepal. For better or worse westerners have started to change the face of Nepal. On one hand western interaction brings infectious tales of friendship, comradery and endeavour, tales full of humanity and inspiration between explorer and sherpa, but at the same time it is clear Nepal was and still is a country woefully underprepared for the sheer volume of tourists that has arrived ever since. The lack of infrastructure - decent roads, constant electricity and clean drinking water is self evident, it is a country that is struggling to adapt to rapid population growth and all the problems that come with it, especially climate change. Cities have doubled, tripled even quadrupled in size, cities and roadsides in the valleys are littered with rubbish, the routes to various mountain peaks are littered with human activity. Smog fills the valleys, a haze gently lapping against the hillsides, a lack of rain and snow melt in the mountains means less crops resulting in migration into the cities. Nepal historically has been made up various tribes in the mountain regions and valleys, each with their own unique identity and culture such as dress ware and ways of cooking. With this migration comes an abandonment and loss of culture. It's startling. And frightening.

Walking around there are signs however that Nepal is able to combine the old with the new. Old Pokhara is home to the oldest buildings in Pokhara, some 300 years old when it was established as a main trading route between Tibet and India. Old terrocotta buildings built in the Newari style sit idly by on either side of the main Street. There is little traffic now, all trade as moved toward lakeside to cater for tourists, so residents sit in front of their shops, some gently engaged in conversation with other shop owners, friends or family. Dogs sleep in shadowed corners to escape the over bearing heat. It is peaceful and quiet, like time as stood still. Several buildings have unfortunately been demolished by the government, but in their place is a new emerging brand of Nepalese architecture. I was surprised to see the two exist side by side given the historical nature of the place but modern Nepalese houses are really attractive. Gone is the terracotta brick work of Newari heritage, but multicoloured glazed bricks sit in their place, often forming patterns resulting in colourful, elegant and vibrant buildings. In the rapid expanse of Nepalese cities a majority of buildings were thrown up with little thought and regard, resulting in a sprawling concrete jungle, but in pockets here and there, thought and care and a willingness to engage with their culture is beginning to show. I was delighted to walk through an area of new builds all being built in this fashion and it changes the whole complexion of how a place looks and feels.

Just north of old Pokhara is Bindhbaisini temple, perhaps the most colourful of temples I have been too yet. Large colour cloths bellow in the wind, breathing in and out, dyes and pigments stain walls, pavements, trees... everything, sprayed around like the aftermath of a child's play fight. Sculptures are lit up with an array of different coloured lights, marigolds strung together and hung wherever possible, the smiles of families, monks and guides giving a mood of exuberance and vitality. It is a quaint, but bustling place to hang around. As a whole I think that is what Nepal excels at, hospitality and colour.

Given Nepal size and geographic location it is remarkable how much of an impact it is had on the world stage. Having the world's highest mountain range is inevitably going to do that, but it also a country that has a significant impact on the world stage, all sadly through the act of war. The Gurka. Walking around the Gurka memorial museum in Pokhara was unexpectedly moving. Impressed with their battle skills in the early 1800's which resulted in heavy British causalities in an attempted colonisation expansion, the British East India Company signed a peace deal with them which meant they could recruit from within their ranks. Ever since the bond between Gurkha and the British army is such, that it is difficult to explain, but it is one that is built on respect for each other. Their nature to act with such good natured dertimination and ferocity for an empire that has not always treated them (or others) well is astonishing. It is the same character that can be read in various accounts of Sherpas accompanying explorers. A willingness to please and work hard with a smile on their face, which ultimately sums up the Nepalese people as a whole. They have been involved in conflicts on the behest of both the British and Indian governments all over the world, which I still find oddly weird, a country so far away, so remote and different, but somehow influencing world affairs.

In my last couple of days in Pokhara I was finally treated to the best views of the mountains yet. Excuse my langue, but they are nothing short of fucking spectacular. The size and range of them still floors me. Coming from someone who lives at sea level it is like I am visiting another world. The way they just sit on top of the rolling hillsides, how they exist outside your natural gaze, you have to naturally look up at them. How geometric shapes of white, grey, and almost blacks contrast agains the green and blue hues of the hills before them and the seemingly constant deep blues of the sky behind. You just can't help but laugh and exhale excitement when you see them. I don't think I will ever tire of looking at them, and I think it may take many years to fully comprehend them. I think viewing them in such splendour as been the highlight of my trip. Spraining my ankle meant that I couldn't partake in a trek to see them closer or be amongst them, but sure as hell given me a reason to go back.

Pokhara is a great place, but one which I ulatimetly had to leave. It is too relaxing, and I started to realise that I may have spent too long there and maybe wasted a few days (although worth it for those mountain views!) So I made my way back to Kathmandu. And it feels different. Partially because I am probably acclimatised to the city a little bit, but walking around its streets feels like I am in a different city than before. Streets that you have become used to somehow look different, the complexity and make up of them somehow changing. Twisting , morphing, evolving. Shops or shapes you didn't see before now exist, sometimes confusing me so much that I wonder whether I have taken a wrong turn. I have spent the last few days exploring areas that I haven't been yet. I seem more grounded in Kathmandu now, I have a sense of orientation to enable me to amble down side streets to my hearts content. I stumbled upon Ason tole, which is a market place for the locals. Four or five streets converging into one square and the result is absolute chaos. There are people coming at you in all directions, you feel like you are being spun round in circles slightly disorientating you alongside the sounds and smells, particularly the rich and potent spices reaching up your nostrils causing you to sneeze vehemently and make your eyes water. Large Bells ring irregularly, pounding it chimes across the square which mainly consists of traders dealing in spices, fruit, vegetables, smoked and cured fish amongst other raw ingredients. The streets adjoining the square are full of clothing, cloths, metal work and and general accessories.

Near Ason tole is Freak street, which before Thamel became established as the central tourist hub of Kathmandu in the 60's and 70's. Which sadly I couldn't really find. The odd old hostel or street art give hints of its existence but trying to navigate around Dubar Square (in which you have to pay to enter) made searching for it awkward. Perhaps all that exist is those small remnants, a place which once had it's time, and as now mostly dissapered as a city changes. Unless it is only revealed to you in a stoned haze. Sort of like Platform Nine and three quarters in Harry Potter. Come in child! Welcome to Freak Street!

Over the river Bagmati, which surrounds Kathmandu's southern extremities, is the city of Patan. Which was incredible. Like Bhaktapur, Kathmandu simply extends into another city, but unlike Kathmandu and outer Bhaktapur, Patan has a bit of class. It is a little bit like going onto a posher estate than the one you currently live on. Eyes widen, you look on in awe. It feels more spacious, it is quieter, buildings are allowed to proudly sit and display their architectural value. It feels a little bit curated. It feels as though money as been put into it. Which is also true of Patan's main attraction, Dubar square. Which is hands down the best complex's and museum I have visited in Nepal, if not actually one of the best I have ever been too.

Dubar square is home to the ancient royal palace where the Malla Kings of Lalitpur (Patan's true name) once resided as well as a concentration of temples and idols. It is clear a lot of money has been put into curating, collecting aritifacts (Buddhist iconography) as well as contributing to repairing buildings damaged by the 2015 Earthquake. Without trying to diminish other museums I have visited in Nepal, it feels as though everything has been put together by a European Commission - it standards and curation feels that way. The statues, drawings, paintings, timber work, metal craft, all sorts of artisan items look and feel as though they have been carefully chosen. It is precise. The curation tells the story of Buddishm and Patan with an elegance, each item interesting in their own way, it shows and tells, informs and teaches. Each having a clear value. It is also contemporary. The museum and temples were being used by another exhibition taking place- PhotoKathmandu. Which in typical fashion I didn't realise was happening until the second day before I leave! But the way the two were combined to tell the stories of Nepalese people was fantastic. In one segment documents and photos were dedicated to how women started to utilise the press to gain civil liberties between the late 60's and now, it told the story how gradually they began to have a voice amongst Nepalese politics and societal issues. Other museum in Nepal have been just about showing their history, Patan was outstanding because it engaged with it, examined it whilst looking forward. It was a great space to spend my last sightseeing day.

With that, I am on my last full day in Nepal. Time as gone quick. And I have an itinerary change, I have removed India from my list and shall move on to Thailand next. I don't think I wanted to have another 4-6 weeks of chaos in my life. Right now anyway. I want to visit India, but on my own terms and has its own thing. So Bangkok here I come!

Anyway all the best, Joel